We’re setting off from Washington DC, making our way to Virginia Beach for the weekend ahead. I look around at the thick forests and the expansive rivers. As the sun begins to set, the landscape takes on an eerie quality. Everything around me seems oversized, a striking contrast to the familiar European scenery I’m used to. How did the early europeans respond to such grandeur? Did it evoke a feeling of inferiority that drove them to conquer the wild continent and its indigenous people? The large road signs bear the name “Chesapeake”. I turn to my partner and ask about it, expecting the obvious answer: “it’s a toponym”. True, but it feels like there’s more to it than just a simple place name.

The Chesapeake people occupied this land for thousands of years until the powerful nearby Powhatan tribe took control of the area. A prophecy that from the Chesapeake Bay a nation should arise which should give an end to the empire caused major losses to the Chesapeake Indians who were considered by that time the usual suspects. In a surprising turn of events, the real threat came from the English settlers in 1644, who steadily pushed back the Powhatan’s through conflict, the spread of European diseases, and, perhaps most devastatingly, intermarriage. A prime example of this is Pocahontas, who was raised as the daughter of Chief Powhatan but ultimately married an English colonist. Tragically, she died at just 22 after being paraded in England as the ideal ‘civilised savage’ in a fundraising effort to support the colonial settlement of Jamestown.

It’s already dark by the time we enter the city of Virginia Beach. Suburb houses mostly with the Stars and Stripes flap in the wind, green sidewalks, everything is neat, everything is in order. Nothing could upset the peaceful neighborhood that boosts its sublimity…not even two strangers wandering around late in the night trying desperately to find Airbnb accommodation after 4 hours of driving and the pick adrenaline when we were running out of fuel and praying for our salvation…a gas station !!!

The following morning, life unfolds with a genuine curiosity to explore the unknown- like an innocent traveler eager to uncover new experiences, rather than a cunning colonist chasing after El Dorado. Large hotels are positioned along the coastline, standing in direct competition with nature itself. This battle could very well end in a defeat for human arrogance, revealing the truth- much like the tale of the king, who is indeed naked. Or if you prefer it by numbers: About 73% of buildings in Virginia Beach are at risk of flooding, and about 90% of them are at risk of wildfire.

The Guinness Book of Records lists Virginia Beach as having the longest pleasure beach on the planet. The 35 miles of sandy shores are made up of three beaches which include the Chesapeake Bay Beach, Sandbridge Beach, and Virginia Beach. A vast sandy beach stretches out towards the sea that once carried the colonist to new territories, eventually coming ashore at a cape in the northeast, right at the mouth of the Cheasepeak Bay. The Englishmen named the area Cape Henry, where they erected a cross and Reverend Robert Hunt offered a prayer for their safe travels before continuing their journey inland. Today, a stone cross memorial statue stands at the site where this prayer was believed to have taken place, a moment that marked the beginning of tragedy for the indigenous people.

At he beach, both dogs and humans bask in moments of joy and carefree bliss. I take off my shoes, to feel the warm sand beneath my feet while i dip my toes into the water to check the temperature. Dogs dash around, splashing through the surf, chasing after balls. It seems though they’ve come to a silent agreement to choose me as the perfect spot to shake off the water or roll around in the sand. The lovely scene is frequently disrupted by the chilling roar of combat aircraft soaring over the coastline. Apparently, I’m the only one bothered by these intrusive flying machines. After World War II several military bases were established in the area due to its strategic positioning for the Air Force and Navy. But war is far away from here. The trigger- happy ones could enjoy a visit to the Military Aviation Museum that boasts the largest private collections of aircraft around. However, for those who prefer the idea of making love instead of war, it’s worth noting that “Virginia is for Lovers” has been one of the most iconic and lasting tourism slogans since it was introduced in 1969. Fast forward to today, and it’s clear that a baby boom has taken place; all around me, i see families and couples happily pushing strollers. For those who prefer the single life and enjoy staying active, they can work out at the fitness park along the expansive sandy beach. The city takes pride in its reputation as one of the fittest places around. If you’re less inclined to socialise, fishing is always a great option, and Virginia Beach is a prime spot for anglers. Meanwhile, hopeless romantics can escape to Southwest Virginia to spend a weekend at the charming Mountain Lake Lodge -the very location where Baby and Johny shared their unforgettable moments, fulfilling those classic teen fantasies. You can dive into the world of “Dirty Dancing” with themed parties, dance lessons, and other fun activities that celebrate the beloved film.

Virginia Beach stands out for its above- average median income and educational attainment, as well as a strong appreciation for cultural activities. However, despite these qualities, the area can’t entirely shake off its kitschy reputation. A prime example of this is the iconic statue of King Neptune, which graces the beach though somewhat out of place, evoking more of a Disneyland vibe than a coastal city. Aside from this, it brings to mind another equally questionable Neptune statue located in the renowned Greek region of Halkidiki. Interestingly, the same sculptor also crafted a memorial honoring members of the Virginia Beach Police Department who lost their lives in the line of duty. This tribute is displayed in the lobby of the Virginia Beach Law Enforcement Training Academy and includes names of those who died, including one officer who succumbed to COVID and a few who were accidentally shot.

The city at night takes an eerie quality as commuters and tourists vanish, leaving the streets empty and dinky lit. The reeds surrounding the pond rustle gently in the wind, adding to the unsettling atmosphere. Is this the work of Grace’s spell? Grace Sherwood was a woman from the rural south who faced accusations of casting spells on her neighbours. In 1706, she was put on trial for witchcraft and subjected to a chilling test: she was thrown overboard into the Lynnhaven River with her thumbs bound to her toes to determine her guilt. If she floated , she would be innocent -but that would mean her death. Against all odds, Grace managed to untie herself and swam to the surface, convincing many witnesses that she was indeed a witch. Following this incident, she was imprisoned for over a decade until the witch hysteria subsided and she was pardoned. Grace went on to live out her days with her family and children, ultimately being buried at the historic Ferry Plantation House, where it’s said her spirit lingers even today.

The sweet scent of honeysuckle gently wraps around me, reminding me of my grandmother’s house and bringing warmth to my heart.

Sunday dawned with rain and gloom hanging in the air. We had to bid farewell to that flashy spot known as the “mother of Presidents”, where eight U.S. Presidents, including Washington, Madison and Harrison, were born. I’m certain that the rest of the Presidents must have stayed at least once in the Cavalier Hotel, which overlooks the ocean. Built in 1927, it remains one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Alongside it stands the lighthouse at Cape Henry, designed to guide the ever -increasing naval traffic, and it has become an official symbol of Virginia Beach, proudly featured on the city’s seal and flag.

The Chesapeake people have transformed into mere road signs, while Pocahontas has become a popular brunch spot managed by a Greek family. But if you ask me, the true essence of the Chesapeake spirit still thrives in the breathtaking expanse of the thousands of acres of national parks, where it’s soul echoes through the trees and whispers in the winds…